A Countryside Compound

Normally in the states you get about 2 weeks of vacation to be taken whenever you choose. In Italy the entire month of August is dedicated to vacation on top of whatever other holidays they take throughout the year. Places shut down, the beach is crowded, pizza everyday and gelato everywhere. It is a 30 day festa filled with screaming children, exhausted nannies and very tan Italians. We spent the main period of the holiday, called fer Agosto with Claudia’s entire family in Torgiano. It is a city in the region of Umbria, right outside of Perugia. The city where I studied abroad.

I had heard of what Torgiano might be like but there really isn’t a proper way to do it justice. Despite my extreme stomach virus I picked up from my last adventure (I will spare you the details) I was still in awe when we pulled up to Fattoria Spinola. Once again imagine with me if you will. We entered through a private gate, and then drove about a quarter mile down a cypress tree lined street with vineyards on either side arriving at the main entrance to the grand villa. A three story 6,000 square foot (I am guessing at that, just know that it was HUGE) mansion. That is where the family stays. Then across from that villa is where Claudia’s cousin, her daughter and husband live year round in a 2 story villa, probably about 3,000 square feet complete with tanning bed if you can believe it. Allison, the other tata and I stayed in a smaller 2 bedroom loft type apartment above one of the garages and next to the pigs, horses, rabbits and ducks. Yes Mom and Dad, it is FINALLY true that I have lived in a pig sty. Despite the constant smell it was incredible to have my own room for a week.

It was very easy to get into a routine in Torgiano. Wake up to the roosters, eat breakfast with the fam, change into swimsuits, play in the garden and then go to the pool. Lunch was always incredible because the Ukrainian cook, Galia was there. Fresh baked bread, sausages on the barbeque, incredible HOMEMADE pasta with organic vegetables from their garden, rabbit with rice (I could do without, I mean we were neighbors. Yes, that also means I saw and then ate poor Mr. Peter Cottontail). Then comes the pausa, my favorite time of the day. Three hours without any responsibilities. I would nap, or take the electric scooter to the market, swim laps, take a walk… but if I were to be honest for most of the time I sat in my room in front of a fan. No air conditioning caused me to be quite lazy. The afternoon called for another swim and this time most of the clan was there to play in the pool, thankfully. My arms were getting tired from throwing her from my shoulders listening to her scream, ancora! (another time). Dinners were of course incredible as well and quite the event. We all sat outside and ate on a huge slab of marble. Always eating off of fine china and sampling such appetisers as liver pate and drinking Ferrai champagne. If I wasn’t the help and concerned with when to clear the table and who wants their coffee in what way it would have been quite the vacation. But hey, I got a small glimpse into the rich life of wealthy Italians and on the other side I can say that liver pate is something that I can do without.

It was fascinating to see how such a family operates on a day to day basis. The children and nannies stay at home during the morning… and most of the day. My hours and location were set. However the rest of the family would go shopping and exploring the nearby cities in search of “the one thing” you can only get in that region. In this case it was ceramics, and thankfully Claudia took me to near by Deruta, one of the main areas for beautiful ceramics so that I could get a taste of what it was all about.

It didn’t take long to feel like I was a guest star in an Italian soap opera. On this compound, with so many family members around and countless opinions flying about you can see how nothing is kept a secret. I would hear from Claudia about the other nanny, and then from her aunt about the cousin, and from the cousin about the grandma. It was exhausting to try and keep up with who likes who, and who is mad about what and then to try and find the balance of being the help and taking part in their family life. Needless to say I savored the afternoons and evenings when I could be gossip free. It was all a bit too ridiculous for me.

At one point they had a 50 person party at the house. Now to those of you that know of my Thanksgiving feasts 50 people can be done…. But 50 people in the kind of style that the Spinolas put out, that was something very different. The maids prepared for 5 days ahead of time. The silver was polished, china perfectly cleaned, linens washed and of course pressed. I was afraid to sneeze anywhere inside of the house with a fear of ruining something. The party went off without a hitch…. Unless you count my responsibility of Lulu, having a massive freak out session and literally running from me to her Grandma who happened to be welcoming at least 20 guests. I got the nastiest look from her perfectly manicured face when she took her hand and led her back to me. Ohhhh the little angel. Its amazing how she can fool so many people into thinking that she is so funny and adorable. Ha. I know the truth. Heres a story for you… so the night of the party we were exiled to one of the rooms to watch cartoons and her grandfather, with whom she is named after, found us with his old college friend. Ludovica was introduced to said friend and he replied that if she is lucky she will one day be as great as her grandfather, Ludovico. She immediately replies, oh no, I already am better and then continued to watch her cartoon. Hahaha laughs all around. Maybe I am more keen to her “kind” words but that is not cute to me. Aretha please, some R-E-S-P-E-C-T.

I am sitting here with 2 days left. Wow. Cliché yes, but the time has flown by. I am off to Caserta, near Naples to visit an old friend for a few days and then I leave my favorite country to explore 11 more. Greece first and then all the way up through Eastern Europe until I get to London. Meeting friends along the way and then joining up with a tour for 3 weeks. It is going to go by so fast but I am ready for my month of backpacking. I can do without diapers, bottles and bidets for a bit. Updates with come as often as I can but no guarantees. I will take note of the ridiculous things that occur and hope to share some good stories.

2 months down, only 1 to go.

For the last time… Jenny the ta-ta

Part 2

Yup, you guessed it, I went. Me, Jennifer Avise on a spontaneous venture to Hungary with the thousands of other backpackers in search of a true European experience…. or just some really good music. You would think that a night train would be so trendy sitting with people from all cultures on a journey to a far away land. Ha, NO. Picture at least 150 tired, dreadlocked hippies waiting to climb on an already packed train at 2:30am ready to sit for 9 hours – or in many peoples case, stand for what turned out to be an 11 hour journey. It was quite comical to listen to the people outside of the cabin where I was SITTING (total score that I even got a seat) say that they were trying to save money on a hostel and sleep on the train. Oh so many times I have tried to explain that very same situation to clients and here I was living it with backpackers just like them. The worst was as soon as you dozed off to “sleep” there were angry border guards in your face, with guns, demanding to see your passport. If I wasn’t so exhausted I might have cared. But I did care enough to get 2 new stamps!

Upon entering Budapest it was quite overwhelming, but that might have been because I was in a “I haven’t slept for almost 2 days and I just took an 11 hour train ride phase”. Regardless, we walked down what I assume to be one of the main roads in Budapest to our hostel – Astoria City Hostel. Nothing too exciting, kind of like all other communal sleeping situations but hey it was a place to shower and drop off luggage. Then, it was time to find some goulash. Mmmmm. I had been craving it since I decided to take this crazy side trip. It was found along with Hungarian sausage and local beer and made me oh so happy – although I think that you could have put a cows tongue in front of me and I would have scarfed it down willingly.

That night was a walk through as much of the Pest side as my legs would allow. Sidenote… for those of you that don’t know – like I did not, Budapest is divided into 2 parts the Buda and the Pest side. I get the feeling that most people stay and frolic on the Pest side because that is where a majority of the main sites are. Anyways we took a long walk on both sides but there is a rather large hill on the Buda side and I was able to get a wonderful view of the Danube followed by the main buildings on the Pest side. It is hard to believe that 20 years ago this city was overtaken by communism and, as I have heard, very run down. I found it to be a bit chaotic but overall quite charming.

The next day I finally awoke refreshed. After too many days of no sleep I was ready to see more of what this city had to offer. Just to let you in on one of my travel “must sees” ….I have a small obsession with markets wherever I go. Covered markets, food markets, craft markets… it really doesn’t matter to me. Budapest did not disappoint. Despite hitting the great wall of language barriers I found it thrilling to interact with locals and have the chance to get a small glimpse of what a normal day might entail. Oh yes, and the fact that I like to think of myself as a quasi foodie required me to sample some of the local cuisine that this market offered. They had a vast spread of local fruits, pastries, spices, coffees and handcrafted goods. I do have to say that next to Florence, Budapest has the best covered market.

Next stop, the baths. Hungary as a country, and Budapest in particular is known for their thermal baths so of course on my city checklist it was a must see. 3,500 HUF (about 12 euro) and you get a locker and all day access to the pools, about 6 in all. It was a refreshing experience and the baths were very nice…. However I think that I am complete spoiled brat because I have spent the past 2 months in Cinque Terre so to pay that much to go to a bath… well I quickly discovered that unless you thrown some Enya on and add some aromatherapy candles I prefer the seaside. Also, the private women’s area where the elderly flock and flop about made me NEVER want to age. Old boobs, scary.

Feeling rejuvenated and glad to be young, Scott and I made our way back to the hostel so that I could pack before the main event. Sziget! After about a 40 minute walk we finally made our way to the boat taxi, purchased our tickets and were on the Danube heading to the island where the Sziget music festival was taking place. Coincidentally this festival is the same week as Woodstock was years ago and is a 5 day, multinational event involving countless bands from all over and at least 400,000 people. Madness is the most appropriate word to sum it up. I have never in my life been to something quite like that. It was everything that I imagined it to be – thousands of happy music lovers dancing, drinking, singing and laughing to whichever band was rocking out on stage. I had the pleasure to arrive when a Spanish punk band was on and the crowd was so into it. There even came a point when people were crowd surfing in inflatable boats, now there’s a good time. After Ska-P there was a slight break before one of the main bands I came to see, Snow Patrol. It was the perfect chance to take a quick walk around and try to absorb of much of the insanity as possible. Strange booths, disco stages, dance parties, people picnicking anywhere they could find a place to sit. It was a scene. After the little jaunt we positioned ourselves on the right hand side of the stage and took in the amazing show that Snow Patrol put on. I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised at how good they were. Next was one of my favorites, Lily Allen. She put on a great show. So much spunk and great sound. Even the guys that thought they were too cool were dancing to her show. Way to go Lily.

After the highlight (Lily), the rest of the festival was filled with bands I would have loved to see but had no idea who they were. I ventured to a few stages but at 2 am decided it would be best to make it back in time to catch my 4 am taxi to the airport. Enter day from hell. 4 am taxi, 6 am flight from Budapest to Milan. 1 hour bus ride from the airport to the city center. Wait 3 hours for the train. Take a 4 hour train ride. Wait 1 hour at the train station to be picked up. Baby-sit a 3 year old for 6 hours. Then 2 days later suffer the consequences of my actions. I got my travel sickness out of the way. A 6 day stomach virus. Oh good times.

We just got back from Umbria, specifically Torgiano and a stay with the entire family (about 15 people). There are several stories from there but my bed is calling me. A dopo.

JIA

Hans Solo - Party of One

Part 1:

Slovenia, check. Hungary, check. Travelling alone to Eastern Europe, check. Thanks to a free rail pass, savvy internet skills and a degree in communications I found myself taking the road less travelled and on a journey that I couldn’t have planned.


Initially I left Levanto with a plan to see Ljubljana and Lake Bled over a period of 4 days. After a 15 hour train ride with stops in Venice and Milan, a few cheesy photos, a broken rail car and 4 loud French backpackers I was dropped in the capital city of Ljubljana, Slovenia at 4 am weighed down by a large pack and completely alone. Amazingly enough the hostel waited for me to arrive and I was able to crash out as soon as I got there. However “sleeping” in a 4 bed mixed dorm is not the most restful experience, thus I was up a very short 3 hours later in search of coffee and friends. Thankfully both were waiting in the communal kitchen when I crawled out of my room. I recognized a shirt from Costa Rica on a guy in the kitchen and struck up a conversation about travels and caffeine. Just like the instant coffee, Scott the Canadian, became an instant friend. Me, being a travel agent came with a list of things to see, places to go and local specialities to eat and he being a solo traveller in search of an adventure was willing to join me in exploring Ljubljana and completing my list.


Ljubljana is a very small city – despite its title of being a capital. The Dragon Bridge, Triple Bridge, Castle and famous square are the main attractions and all about 10 minutes from each other. After crossing the bridges and wandering around the antiques market absorbing the communist paraphernalia (swastikas and the sort) the trek to the castle on the hill called my name. The hike to the top wasn’t that bad and the view from the tower was a wonderful way to see the entire city. However after the castle adventure all of the main spots were photographed and my checklist was complete. Hmmmmm. Sightseeing in 1 hour, check.


Craving the local delicacies of sausage, mustard and beer I took out my list and we ventured to a restaurant with a menu that I couldn’t understand one word…. that’s how you know that’s going to be authentic. The food was great and very different. I got a sausage in a red wine sauce and tried the mushroom soup, both very good and as I found out later, an aroma that I would have of for a few hours. Ha, oops. That afternoon it was quite hot so the hostel directed all of its customers to a local pool around the corner. Relaxing and restful- just what I needed. Then that night the castle was hosting a movie in the main courtyard so armed with a picnic we took a ride on the cable car and arrived at the top with locals and tourists to enjoy Revolutionary Road with Slovenian subtitles. Just to give you an idea how different their language is hvala is thanks… yea about that, huh?


The next day Lake Bohinj and Lake Bled were on the agenda. There was a slight attempt to rent a car with 4 people from the hostel but all of the local agencies were sold out so the bus was the best mode of transportation. 2 hours later I found myself at the base of the Alps on the edge of a crystal clear lake listening to language I have never heard before and wishing my camera could truly capture what I was seeing. The water was absolutely frigid but so refreshing. This lake, Bohinj, was beyond the typical tourist path and made me grateful to have heard about it (thanks Lonely Planet). After lunch - sorry, nothing exciting to report here, and a 45 minute bus ride the city and lake called Bled were before me. What a difference between the two lakes. 5x as many people wandering around, hotels, shops, and countless restaurants. Don’t get me wrong this place was beautiful. A clear lake with an island church in the middle, a castle very high on a hillside that overlooked the water and very cute wooden boats for hire scattering the shoreline. Quaint.


As we headed back to Ljubljana I was at a crossroad in my journey. I had a decision to make. Do I stay in Ljubljana for another day and take the train back at 2am on Wednesday or do I venture with a new friend to the Sziget Music Festival in Budapest, Hungary and fly back on Thursday… hmmmm.


Details to come but Lulu has awoken from her “na-na” and I need a typing break.

JIA – the tata

When in Rome - Rick Steves has nothing on Tuscans

This past weekend (well actually two weeks ago now.. time lapse) I was able to head to Tuscany. (yes I know, it was the second weekend in a row… I am a jerk for sharing sorry) Anyways, I met up with my friend Beth who was one of my roommates while studying in Perugia – and she also happens to be from Davis. You see, Beth was a nanny as well a few years ago and like a fairy take she fell in love with an Italian named Marco. She has been here for a month or so to visit him and I was lucky enough to be able to leech onto their vacation and spend some time with a true Tuscan.

After a 5 hour train ride I arrived into Chiusi, a small town near the edge of Tuscany and Umbria. Beth and Marco picked me up and we ventured to his parents house. There we rested and I got a chance to wash off the train ick before we took a drive through the Tuscan countryside. I have this thought that most people secretly want to star in their own movie, and if I had a chance mine would take place in this area. I was in the back of what I assume to be the traditional Italian car… tinsy, 2 door manual. We blared Italian music as we whipped around the curves and I plastered my face to the window in awe of all that I was able to see. We passed giant bales of hay, fields of vibrant yellow sunflowers, coffee shops packed with people of all ages and of course wineries.

After our little jaunt we arrived in a town called Montepulciano. You may not know this town right now but for those of you that are Twilight fans the next movie, New Moon, was filmed there. They even have the cheesy t-shirts in the shops. I know… gag me. However not only are they now known for being a movie location but they are also home to a world famous wine called Vino Nobile de Montepulciano. Ill let you in on a little secret. If you can ever find a way to make friends with locals DO IT. Yes it might be scary and if you are travelling alone it might not be something that I would recommend but if you really want to know the hidden secrets that even Rick Steve’s can’t find then you need a local. Marco (Beth’s boyfriend) is from a town near Montepulciano he knew all of the places to visit and of course the cuisine to try.

As we trekked up to the center… it was a hillside town and pretty steep to get to, we arrived to the sounds of a symphony performing in the main square. Seriously, a symphony, composed of about 70-100 people playing every instrument. We listened and tried to absorb as much as possible as the sound echoed throughout the Piazza to the 14^th century buildings. After the concert we dropped into a local cellar to tour the casks and later we had a wine and cheese tasting. Heaven. World renowned wine and 4 types of pecorino I cant think of a better combo.

Perugia was our next stop. Aww to be “home” again. Walking the town, seeing the famous fountain, eating a Baci chocolate and listening to the variety of languages in the center. It was so good to be back if only for a few hours. That night we went back to Tuscany (la Citta de Pieve) and I woke up to a vast valley before me. The schedule for the day was a picnic on Mount Amiata with Marcos friends. I loved tagging along on the shopping adventure with Tuscans because 1. they know that places to go and 2. they are very particular. We went to the butcher and I watched as he sliced off a huge chunk of raw beef called bistecca Florentina that is supposed to be served barley cooked…. Not so sure about that one but who am I to judge? A few sausages and some other groceries later we were on out way.

The drive to Mount Amiata was about an hour and allowed us to pass through a good portion of the countryside. We arrived at a large park on the mountain and set up camp. Lunch was perfect.. a slow 5 hour meal filled with joking, the sharing of stories and of course incredible food. Stuffed to the brim we passed out on the dirt. Classy, I know. Then we climbed to the top of the mountain where the view jolted me to the reality of just how lucky I am.

A little town called Lucca was the final destination for my weekend 2 hours north of La Citta de Pieve. This town is surrounded by a huge wall so thick that you can drive a car around the perimeter – we choose bikes. A 7 euro rental and we had wheels. The churches, piazzas were wonderful – however I have to admit a real reason I was excited about Lucca. A co-worker is Italian and knows this town fairly well. She warned me of a thing called, “Lucca bread” and told me of a place to look. We biked over to the B&B to see if they had it…. They did not but directed us to the place where it could be purchased. We jetted over to the pasticceria called Fabbrica Buccellato Taddeucci and entered a fresh baked haven. I bought a loaf of such bread (braided with chocolate and candied orange pieces) and 2 small other pieces. I have to ashamedly admit that I walked out of the store sampled my purchase and walked right back in to buy more. Glutton yes, but oh so happy J I think that sums up Lucca. Adorable, bike-able city with great baked goods. It certainly suited my fancy.

Many more adventures to be added. Coming very soon.

JIA

Leather, Pashminas and of course, THE David.

Ahhh. Florence or Firenze to those of you in “the know”. I love that city. The leather, jewellery, pashminas, food markets and of course countless tourists blindly following the plastic flower, umbrella or waving hand to guide them to the next major attraction.

Last weekend I ventured to Florence to visit, Kassey and friend from college who was living there for the month of July… I know, lucky girl. It was so refreshing to see a an old friend and what was even better was her knowledge of the town and of course her apartment near the Ponte Vecchio was a great place to stay with her and her Mom and Grandma who were visiting. We spent the weekend eating apperitivos at very cute local bars, shopping in the San Lorenzo Market, eating gelato from its birthplace (yes gelato began in Florence, I mean what better reason to feast on that incredible frozen delicacy than in the place where it originated? At least that’s what I told myself) and of course visiting the incredible historical monuments that it has to offer.

For those of you that have not been to Firenze let me paint a mental picture for you. Go ahead imagine with me if you will (I would say close your eyes but then you cannot continue…alas) a town in the region of Tuscany known for art, wine and the ideal Italian vacation (it has also been the home to many chick flicks, hence the reason most women have an unknown draw to this area). The smell of cheese, salami, procuttio and coffee combine with the sounds of laughter from of the cafes to make a perfect setting for a get away. The only draw back from this incredible place is the humidity and heat, but I will no dwell on the negatives.

Upon exiting the Santa Maria Novella train station you are immediately met with the Santa Maria Novella church immense and beautiful standing before you. As you walk towards the center of town you pass countless clothing and shoe stores, the San Lorenzo market, the covered market and of course during all of this the smell of leather is wafting through the air. If there is such a thing as a shopping crave I certainly got one inhaling that amazing aroma. Continuing on you see the Duomo and Campanile, one of the most famous in Italy. And in front of them hundreds of people posing, while squinting from the bright, hot sun. Leaving there you can pass through a very famous Piazza (so famous in fact that its name is currently slipping my mind, sorry about that) where the FAKE David is. You know, David, THE DAVID, the incredibly famous statue of the biblical David.

***Tangent….. I find it so odd that in a culture where people are often more modest than not in the Academia building where the real David is there is a bench behind him. I know the reason that it is there but I always have to laugh because it is the perfect place to take a rest and bask in the glory is his perfect behind. Maybe its just me but people get into some sort of trance sitting there “relaxing”. I mean sure there are people that sit near his front side but every time that I have visited the bench behind him is always packed. People saying oh this is so incredible… yea, you are just so – in awe- .

Back to the rest of the trip. If you continue past the famous, forgotten name, Piazza you will pass the Uffizi building which houses an large number of Florence’s most famous paintings. Just behind the Uffizi lays the Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge that didn’t get destroyed in WWII, and home to the gold jewellery headquarters of this town. If you continue walking you will pass the Pitti Palace and behind it the Boboli Gardens. They are a great combination of art, history and the patience of a person with a very green thumb.

Don’t be mistaken there are many more historical sites that can be explored but these mentioned (oh yes and the Santa Croce Church) are the main sites if you are doing a whirlwind tour. The new thing that I did this trip was that I climbed the top of the Duomo. I got up really early and was at the side entrance of the Duomo by 8:30 am ready to climb the 463 steps to the top. Besides no ventilation, narrow walkways and spiral staircases it was not that bad and the view from the top is something that HAS to be seen. It allows for the perfect 360 degree view of the entire town and the regions beyond it. You can play Where’s Waldo with the churches and places that you have visited and it gives you a satisfaction of knowing just how much you walked to earn all of that gelato. Just me? OK moving on.

All in all it was a great way to spend the weekend (and my hard earned 80 euro per week). I just got back from a Tuscan vacation but that update will come in just a bit.

Until next time..

JIA

Also, just to keep you coming back for more, here is another recipe:

Pepperoni

(Italian style, not the kind that comes on a pizza)

I realize that this may not sound like the most appetizing dish (sorry Mom, I know that you didn’t seem to be a fan) but TRUST ME, if prepared correctly it is incredible!

• 2 red bell peppers and 2 yellow bell peppers
• ¾ cup raisins
• 1 red onion sliced
• 2 TBS olive oil
• ½ - ¾ cup bread crumbs
• 1TBS red vinegar
• 1 TBS brown sugar

1. Clean and slice the bell peppers into chunks
2. Heat the olive oil and sauté the onion. Once soft add the bell peppers and sauté until cooked
3. Add the raisins, brown sugar and vinegar and heat all together. If there is no remaining liquid add some water to ensure that there is enough for the bread crumbs to absorb
4. Just before serving add the bread crumbs

*parmesan can be added to the dish for a little something extra J

What to do with that odd looking veggie called eggplant

As many of you know I am obsessed with eggplant. I love the purple veggie that most “texture eaters” are against. Here in Italy, we all ride that same train. They have so many uses for it that I thought I would share a few of them with the hope of converting a few of you to try it. Note, this may be a step out there but people all over the world are enjoying it and why cant you too?

Fried Eggplant

· 2 medium sized eggplants

· Olive oil

· Bread crumbs (2 cups)

· 2 eggs

· Parmesan cheese, ground (about a 3/4ths of a cup)

1. Eggplant can be very bitter so a few hours before cooking or the night prior if you think about it (the more time the better. They might turn brown but no worries), slice the eggplant about ¾ of an inch thick and salt both sides. This will draw the excess water and bitter taste out.

2. Heat a substantial amount of oil in a pan. Make sure there is enough room to fry several slices at a time

3. Crack the 2 eggs in a bowl and stir. Combine bread crumbs and parmesan cheese on a large plate.

4. Dip the eggplant into the egg and then transfer to the bread crumb and cheese plate. Then float in the oil. Cook until both sides are brown. Serve warm with a touch of parm on top. Enjoy!

Spicy and Chunky Eggplant (no real name)

· 2 medium sized eggplants

· 2 TBS olive oil

· 1 red onion

· 2-3 vine ripened tomatoes

· crushed red pepper (to taste)

1. The same as above: Eggplant can be very bitter so a few hours before cooking or the night prior if you think about it (the more time the better. They might turn brown but no worries), slice the eggplant into 1 inch chunks and salt all over the kosher salt (the large granules). This will draw the excess water and bitter taste out.

2. Sauté onion and tomatoes in olive oil. Once cooked add the eggplant and red pepper.

3. You can serve alone or with pasta. Either way it is delicious!

Pureed Eggplant

· 2 medium eggplants

· Olive oil

· 1 red onion

· Salt and pepper to taste

1. Cut eggplant into chunks, salt and let water draw out.

2. Steam the eggplant until soft

3. Add chopped red onion, steamed eggplant, 3 TBS olive oil, salt and pepper to a blender to puree.

4. Perfect over a baguette or mixed in with pasta. Oh yes, and with parmesan of course!

A Tatas Roman Holiday

The re-enactment of Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday was going on last week. Well not exactly, but I can say that I starred in the recession 2009 version involving babies, diapers, bidets and Italian Nonnas. Claudia, Lulu and I drove the 4 1-2 hour journey to Marina San Niccola last week to stay with her mother and her mothers twin in their twin villas 30 minutes north of Rome on the seaside. Yes, you read correctly. It was an interesting first day meeting these two. Normally when I think of all of the twins that I have come into contact with they are all younger, but as all people do, they get old. And as if they weren’t identical already, their houses are exact mirrors of one another with slightly different décor

The house was nice, every room had its own bathroom (not in-suite but next door) and I got to share with Lulu… of course. It was easy to get into a routine there because they are very orientated to be that way. Well it might have something to do with fact that the other Nonna (Maria Teresa) has a live in cook from the Ukraine named Galia. For 10 years she has been away from her family, learned Italian both the language and cuisine and now does everything for them. She was incredible. The food that she prepared for both lunch and dinner was something that could have been served in a restaurant. Just a few examples: pasta with what seemed like a bruschetta sauce, FRESH bread (white or wheat everyday), whole fish, a variety of meats barbequed, tuna with sautéed veggies (that was a shocker didn’t look like tuna and made me gag just a bit), a rice dish with curried pork, pepperoni’s (Italian version of small bell peppers) sautéed and seasoned to perfection and of course a few types of pastas and several cheeses. Oh yes and wine, but we will get to that later.

Let me fill you in on the family a bit. The sisters spend the month of July near Rome at the seaside and then in August go to Torgiano, near Perugia to their villas in the country to have the whole family for a visit. The other family is very well known in Genova because the last name, Spinola has papal history meaning that they are related to a pope in the days that they were able to marry. They even have historical papers at their villa in Torgiano stating some family history. I was informed that their family owned all of the land from Perugia to Assisi.

When we arrived in Marina San Niccola the other sister had her daughter (40s), granddaughter (9) and their tata there. Amazingly enough the other tata is from Colorado Springs and is 19. We hit it off immediately. Maybe it was a desperation for English. Maybe it was a need to vent about the experiences we were having and if we were crazy to think that sometimes its just too much, or maybe it was the fact that we are two girls living the dream in Italy and wanted to share it with someone who would understand. Regardless we had a great time and she having been there for a week already was able to show me the ropes of what to do and not to do in order to fit in.

The day after we got there the families let us have to day off to travel to Rome and explore the eternal city. Allison and I spent the day walking from St. Peters, where I got to see the tomb of Giovanni Paolo II and St. Peter, to the Spanish Steps where we of course had to take the token Audrey photo on the steps. From there we made our way to the Trevi fountain and threw three coins in with the hopes of returning with a love (I think that is the rule with three coins but oh well). At this point the heat had gotten to us to we grabbed some food and drink – caprese on foccacia bread- and sat under the entrance to the Pantheon and watched as tourists entered and exited the famous church. We explored the area around and then decided that a gelato was necessary so I took us on an adventure to find Blue Ice, a gelateria that I had gone to as a senior in high school – success! And yes it was still wonderful. The rest of the afternoon we climbed to the top of the Victor Emanuale building with the best view of the Coliseum, posed for a few photos and then hoofed it to the base of the Coliseum and Roman Forum. Sadly we were too cheap, too tired and too sweaty to be bothered with the throngs of tourists following plastic flowers listening to guides to pay the 8 euro and 9 euro entry fees so we glanced from the outside in.

The next day everyone left but Lulu, me and the Nonnas awaiting the arrival of Claudias brother, his wife and her parents. I was thrown into a family reunion without a team t-shirt and not knowing who to represent. For the most part all was well but it was quite the experience to be part of, yet so far from a family.

The seaside there was wonderful. Black sand and plenty of people watching to be done. In the evenings I would walk to the centre and grab a gelato hans solo and just sit and listen to the water. Later in the week I was able to go to a market in a nearby town where the clothing was in bins for 3-5 euro. I was in awe and so ready to buy, I mean who pays that kind of money for cute clothes! All in all it was a nice time but I was so glad to get back to Casella, especially after a 3 1-2 hour train ride with Lulu who wanted to wander the aisle. No fun.

The update on Florence to come but my hand is cramping and the little angel is waking from her nap. Until next time.

JIA

Andiamo al mare!

Question, how can you tell that it is July and August in Italy? Answer.... countless old men in speedos and Italian women dressed to the nines who sit in the sun all day. I have no idea how they do it.... the women, well and the men I guess. No shame thats for sure.


I am quickly learning what it is like to be on an Italian holiday. The Rivas have a cabin at the beach where they house all of their things. In addition they have several chairs both of the sitting and lounge variety. It is a very nice set-up. We have been going about twice a day. Lulu loves to be in the water and laughs so much that choking is now a regular occurence. There is only so much that you can do to prevent her laughter besides tell her to chuiso la boca!

I love people watching there, not in the creeper sense, but it awe of how the people interact. Its fun and sometimes sad to see how the families are together. Thankfully because Claudia is a single mother she does not have the entitled attitude that most of the women have. Monday through Friday the seaside is speckled with mothers, children and ta-tas but come the weekend the men flood in to get some face time with the kids. I was sitting in the park today and saw so many Fathers chase the kids around thinking well 2 out of 7 days, I guess that they can put that much enegery into it.



Lets see to update since I have been here we have ventured to an Italian Circus. Nothing spectacular just a few scary men in tight, shiny, spandex pants juggling a variety of objects and overcharging to see their act. We have been to a few very nice restaurants, well nice in the sense that it has been some of the best eating of my life not cloth napkins and suited waiters. I am going to start to add the recipes that I am learning from Claudia to my updates to stay tuned... they will arrive shortly.

Each night Claudia makes an incredible meal. It ranges from a variety of cheeses to pastas and sauces. Several types of local wine that a friend made or she knew someone who loves this type ect. Also, everything and I mean EVERYTHING is cooked, coated, dipped or dunked in olive oil. Oh how I love thee.

A few days ago I was fortuante enough to meet up with a friend from college and her friend in Cinque Terre to escape bottles and diapers and speak some much needed English. We stayed in Riomaggiore at a place called Edys (Rick Steves special) in an apartment. Upon meeting Kassey and Jennie we immediatley headed out for lunch (foccacia, local specialty) and then started the hike around 3pm. The trek from Riomaggiore to Manarola also called Lovers Lane was 1km and well paved, a nice afternoon stroll if you will. The venture from Manarola to Corniglia also 1km had a little suprise at the end of about 380 steps to climb.... but ok we could handle this. Lies. The following segment from Corniglia to Vernazza was 4km, not paved and included hundreds of steps. Hahaha, we finally realized why people say the hike is hard. However despite the heavy breathing and dust the views were indcredible and upon entering into Vernazza we were welcomed by a free beach and cafe. Not like people were literally waiting to serve us but the option was there. It took quite of bit of enegery to get us out of our chairs after a espresso but risotto called our name from the next town over, Monterosso. 3km to go! This last bit was the most difficult having to go from sea level to mountain high quite rapidly but the idea of a Kodak moment and the impending sunset pushed us on. Finally at 8:30pm we descended into Monterosso legs wobbling but with a feeling of great accomplishment.

Can I please tell you about this risotto... well of course, its my blog. I had been hearing about this ristorante for months from Kara a coworker who, upon hearing of my location in Italy told me about a place who served not plates, but VATS of the most amazing risotto. I mean what carb, cheese lover could turn down that? After a few failed attempts and wrong turns we made it to the ristorante and were seated immediately. Risotto ai funghi e vino rosso per favore. Thats all it took for me to enter into gastronomic heaven.

It has been nice to finally feel a bit more situated and comfortable in someone elses home. I know that it will take time but I am learning more Italian and feeling more like a regular than foreigner. I am so excited for upcoming adventures... Tuesday we head to her mothers house outside of Rome for another seaside outing. Thankfully there is another American ta-ta with whom I am hoping to shares stories and memories with. Who knows!

A dopo!

Jenny the ta-ta

Also, if you would like to see photos you can look at them through this link: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2424702&id=3203327&l=76438f2ad6

TA - TA?

To some this phrase may have no meaning at all but to those of you that are aware of the need to "save the ta tas" as a girl in my sorority did, I would like you to know that in Italy the nanny is known as a ta-ta. Yes each day, several times a day I am reminded of the need to save people from breast cancer. It is quite a good start I think.

We have made it to Casella a commune di Levanto (think Cinque Terre minus the tourists). Claudia refers to her house a tower becase there are three levels. The bottom level has the 2 bedrooms. One in which I share with Ludovica and then Claudia has the other. The next level is the living room and my personal bathroom. The last is the kitchen and outdoor terrace. Imagine walking out to a fountain, tiled patio that overlooks an olive grove on one side and hillside towns on the other. I feel like a mute because all that I want to do is look out on the countryside and stare at the cars. I make Lulu sit on the floor and look for buses--- yes I know that I am creative but hey she likes it because I let her "play" with my hair.

We have not had a chance to go to the sea because the weather has been bad however I have had a chance to see the town. Last night we went to a small ristorane in town to celebrate my arrival and the one year anniversary of Claudias divorce. Close your eyes and imagine this meal (sorry to those of you that are reading hungry.... this is mean I realize). We sit outside facing a small garden with fountain, and are served a variety of bread. I order a salad and then ravoli with a walnut sauce... a local specaility. The appetizer were large, fried anchovies... yes, anchovies and I ate them, well hoovered might be a better term. Who knew that the slimy little canned fish could grow so big and offer so much enjoyment. I am now a believer. Of course we had to have sparliking wine to toast with (chin - chin) and then after dinner it was grilled peaches with caramel and gelatto. Oh, yes, and limoncello. Phew.... roll me home.

Today the sun was also hiding but we went to town anyway. Claudia went to the park with Lulu and I got a chance to walk around. The castle, church, shops and my favorite - the grocery store. I must have looked like a well dressed homeless person because I just walked and looked at the fresh pesto and cheese. No drool thankfully.

Currently I am enjoying the benefits of looking after a little one because she is napping. Hopefully later we can go to the sea because despite the cooler temperatures it is still humid and I need to be in the ocean. It was torture to see all of the people in the water... well, also torture to see all of the old Italian men in speedos. It was a quick refersher course in seaside wear.

I hope all is well and that this message brings you a bit of joy. Until next time-

Jenny the ta ta.

Burn baby burn

Sometimes you have to take a step back and realize that things are just just meant to be. On the way out of Davis and to SFO we had quite the stressful journey. First when we got on the 5 we somehow just missed a huge traffic back up only to hit a 5 mph slow down a few miles up the road. After a nail biting 15 minutes we passed a semi truck full of wood that had caught fire. Phew... then once we hit the lovely, hot spot of Stockton a large black cloud similar to Eyeores friendly partner decided to stick with us and meet our car at the front of a traffic blockage of yet another car engulfed in flames. We arrived just before the fireman and had the lovely opportuinty to watch them put it out. Ok fire two, check. All along my goal was to reach the airport by 3:30pm but at this point things were looking quite grim. As if I wasnt stressed enough as is about leaving I now had the lovely "missing the plane "detail to add. Thankfully our car was being watched out for beacuse when my Mom turned off the engine outside of my gate the clock read 3:30pm EXACTLY.
The night I spent in Chicago and the next day at the O Hare airport ready to board. 9 hours and 15 minutes later I touched down in Rome ready to head to Cinque Terre only to discover that there had been a train wreck, and FIRE on the route that I was susposed to take. Go figure. So now I sit and write to you from Claudias fathers office in Bologna. Full of pasta, gelatto and fine Italian beer. Little Ludovia keeps running in here screaming things in Italian and laughing.... I laugh back but am secrectly a bit worried about what the heck she is saying. Man its going to be in interesting two months. Tomorrow we head to the sea for a summer beach time. I sure hope that I can survive.

ciao tutti!

What is it about moving that reveals your worst habits? Oh, right..... it must have been all of my possessions sprawled across the front lawn of my house and all of the people driving by wondering how much they cost. hmmm, a bit embarrassing. After hours of moving, the two SUV's packed to the brim and "trailer" filled with furniture we made it to my cousins house. Thank goodness for family and friends to help (and hopefully not judge me too harshly) through the moving process and storage of all of my crap.

After an exhausting week of packing, unpacking and then repacking, followed by practice walks around the house with my full pack (it has a small pulse... a human can fit in it) I think that I am as ready as I will ever be. 40 hours of travel time and plenty of airline germs await my ingestion tomorrow as I head from SFO to Chicago and then onto Rome late Monday. I am going to become Steve Martin as I experience all that the mobile world has to offer - planes, trains and automobiles. I hope that my large hand gestures will come in handy when I arrive in Italy ready to find the "village" that the family lives in. It is so small that they don't have addresses - all that I need to know is that it is an orange house with rooftop terrace. Oh joy.

Until next time. Ciao!

Italian Summer, T-13 Days

An all too familiar site, imagine with me if you will: countless boxes scattered across the house, dust bunnies you thought had fled the coop and the pointless attempt to use the last of the canned food you thought would be a good idea to stock up with in the winter.... Yes, it is time to move again. However this time, fleeing the country is a bit more accurate.
I am leaving in less than 2 weeks for a summer in Italy and Eastern Europe. Am I excited? Yes. Anxious? Yes. Drooling over the memory of amazing food and wine - well that goes without saying. Bologna, Cinque Terre and Perugia are going to fill the first 2 months, a holiday with the Riva family. It will be an adventure to share a room with a three year old little girl-a chance to revert back to playing house and tea party with a new twist, the language barrier. I hope that I don't get too many paper cuts trying to translate pre-school slang in my dictionary.
After the latest version of adventures in babysitting comes a visit to an old friend in Southern Italy and then 10 days in Greece. Who knew that I would be able to star in my very own version of Mama Mia and Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants. Maybe... Mama Mia's' traveling Pants? Or Sisterhood of the Traveling Mama? No.... too far.
I'll try to paint a picture of my adventures here - who knows where they will take me. I am ready for a new start; a reinvention of Jenny if you will. Time to begin the journey. Stay tuned.