A Countryside Compound

Normally in the states you get about 2 weeks of vacation to be taken whenever you choose. In Italy the entire month of August is dedicated to vacation on top of whatever other holidays they take throughout the year. Places shut down, the beach is crowded, pizza everyday and gelato everywhere. It is a 30 day festa filled with screaming children, exhausted nannies and very tan Italians. We spent the main period of the holiday, called fer Agosto with Claudia’s entire family in Torgiano. It is a city in the region of Umbria, right outside of Perugia. The city where I studied abroad.

I had heard of what Torgiano might be like but there really isn’t a proper way to do it justice. Despite my extreme stomach virus I picked up from my last adventure (I will spare you the details) I was still in awe when we pulled up to Fattoria Spinola. Once again imagine with me if you will. We entered through a private gate, and then drove about a quarter mile down a cypress tree lined street with vineyards on either side arriving at the main entrance to the grand villa. A three story 6,000 square foot (I am guessing at that, just know that it was HUGE) mansion. That is where the family stays. Then across from that villa is where Claudia’s cousin, her daughter and husband live year round in a 2 story villa, probably about 3,000 square feet complete with tanning bed if you can believe it. Allison, the other tata and I stayed in a smaller 2 bedroom loft type apartment above one of the garages and next to the pigs, horses, rabbits and ducks. Yes Mom and Dad, it is FINALLY true that I have lived in a pig sty. Despite the constant smell it was incredible to have my own room for a week.

It was very easy to get into a routine in Torgiano. Wake up to the roosters, eat breakfast with the fam, change into swimsuits, play in the garden and then go to the pool. Lunch was always incredible because the Ukrainian cook, Galia was there. Fresh baked bread, sausages on the barbeque, incredible HOMEMADE pasta with organic vegetables from their garden, rabbit with rice (I could do without, I mean we were neighbors. Yes, that also means I saw and then ate poor Mr. Peter Cottontail). Then comes the pausa, my favorite time of the day. Three hours without any responsibilities. I would nap, or take the electric scooter to the market, swim laps, take a walk… but if I were to be honest for most of the time I sat in my room in front of a fan. No air conditioning caused me to be quite lazy. The afternoon called for another swim and this time most of the clan was there to play in the pool, thankfully. My arms were getting tired from throwing her from my shoulders listening to her scream, ancora! (another time). Dinners were of course incredible as well and quite the event. We all sat outside and ate on a huge slab of marble. Always eating off of fine china and sampling such appetisers as liver pate and drinking Ferrai champagne. If I wasn’t the help and concerned with when to clear the table and who wants their coffee in what way it would have been quite the vacation. But hey, I got a small glimpse into the rich life of wealthy Italians and on the other side I can say that liver pate is something that I can do without.

It was fascinating to see how such a family operates on a day to day basis. The children and nannies stay at home during the morning… and most of the day. My hours and location were set. However the rest of the family would go shopping and exploring the nearby cities in search of “the one thing” you can only get in that region. In this case it was ceramics, and thankfully Claudia took me to near by Deruta, one of the main areas for beautiful ceramics so that I could get a taste of what it was all about.

It didn’t take long to feel like I was a guest star in an Italian soap opera. On this compound, with so many family members around and countless opinions flying about you can see how nothing is kept a secret. I would hear from Claudia about the other nanny, and then from her aunt about the cousin, and from the cousin about the grandma. It was exhausting to try and keep up with who likes who, and who is mad about what and then to try and find the balance of being the help and taking part in their family life. Needless to say I savored the afternoons and evenings when I could be gossip free. It was all a bit too ridiculous for me.

At one point they had a 50 person party at the house. Now to those of you that know of my Thanksgiving feasts 50 people can be done…. But 50 people in the kind of style that the Spinolas put out, that was something very different. The maids prepared for 5 days ahead of time. The silver was polished, china perfectly cleaned, linens washed and of course pressed. I was afraid to sneeze anywhere inside of the house with a fear of ruining something. The party went off without a hitch…. Unless you count my responsibility of Lulu, having a massive freak out session and literally running from me to her Grandma who happened to be welcoming at least 20 guests. I got the nastiest look from her perfectly manicured face when she took her hand and led her back to me. Ohhhh the little angel. Its amazing how she can fool so many people into thinking that she is so funny and adorable. Ha. I know the truth. Heres a story for you… so the night of the party we were exiled to one of the rooms to watch cartoons and her grandfather, with whom she is named after, found us with his old college friend. Ludovica was introduced to said friend and he replied that if she is lucky she will one day be as great as her grandfather, Ludovico. She immediately replies, oh no, I already am better and then continued to watch her cartoon. Hahaha laughs all around. Maybe I am more keen to her “kind” words but that is not cute to me. Aretha please, some R-E-S-P-E-C-T.

I am sitting here with 2 days left. Wow. Cliché yes, but the time has flown by. I am off to Caserta, near Naples to visit an old friend for a few days and then I leave my favorite country to explore 11 more. Greece first and then all the way up through Eastern Europe until I get to London. Meeting friends along the way and then joining up with a tour for 3 weeks. It is going to go by so fast but I am ready for my month of backpacking. I can do without diapers, bottles and bidets for a bit. Updates with come as often as I can but no guarantees. I will take note of the ridiculous things that occur and hope to share some good stories.

2 months down, only 1 to go.

For the last time… Jenny the ta-ta